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Get your fish fry fix in Harlem before summer ends

Updated: Jun 2, 2020

Did you catch last week's great piece on the late-summer fish fry in The New York Times? It explained the significance of these gatherings in the African-American community, for whom fried fish dinners have been a tradition since the era of slavery.

Singled out were restaurants from Atlanta to Los Angeles that specialize in this humble dish, incorporating seafood such as catfish, tilapia and red snapper.

Although no spots in New York made the cut, plenty have caught the attention of foodies over the years. Martha Stewart once even documented her pilgrimage to Famous Fish Market in Harlem.

And while some fear New York's fried fish restaurants are on the wane, bright spots do exist. One "urban miracle" is Devin's Fish & Chips on 747 St. Nicholas Avenue, which closed down in 2014 due to a kitchen fire, but reopened in the same space last fall.

With only a few days left of summer, stop by and order a fried whiting sandwich slathered in tartar and hot sauce for a mouthwatering single-serving take on the late-season fish fry.

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